Skincare 101: How to Improve Uneven Skin Tone

“My face has these dark spots and discoloured patches. They make my skin look dull and irritated, and they won’t go away! Is there anything I can do?” 

We’ve got you, fam! Dealing with uneven skin tone can be a stressful time but it's not the end of the world. Reducing and getting rid of these spots all boils down to good skincare habits, choosing the right ingredients, and patience. Of course, understanding the basics of uneven skin tone can also help so let’s discuss what it is, its triggers, and what you can do to clear up and brighten your skin.

What is uneven skin tone?

Uneven skin tone is an umbrella term for discolouration or pigmentation on your skin which includes those acne scars, sun spots, redness, melasma, and the like. It is one of the most common skin problems and can be considered as a reflection of your skin’s health.

What causes uneven skin tone?

Hyperpigmentation and discolouration can be caused by many things, some out of your control and others easily preventable. To get you started, here's a list of the most common triggers of uneven skin tone:

• Sun exposure – The most notorious cause of uneven skin tone!
• Acne – Scars and dark spots after a breakout, especially if you touch, pop, or prick your acne.
• Pregnancy
• Some medications
• Free radicals
• Inflammations like acne, bug bites, burns, or melasma (caused by hormonal changes)
• Aging
• Dehydrated skin

How to even out your skin tone through skincare

You don’t have to immediately run towards laser treatments or other intense procedures for hyperpigmentation. Sometimes, good skincare habits can do the trick.

1. Sunscreen—add it to your routine!

Uneven skin tone can be caused by repeated and prolonged exposure to the sun. Hyperpigmentation and sun spots are the result of your skin putting up its defences against UV rays and the damage they cause. How? Melanocyte cells are propelled into action by sunlight and they produce melanin in response to it. This is why we get a tan through the sun, and uneven skin tone when directly exposed to UV rays for too long.

It’s always best to apply sunscreen in the morning and to re-apply every 2 hours to ensure that you stay protected throughout the day. With proper sun protection, you keep your skin healthy and free of dark spots.

🍑 Skincare is 90% protection. Skipping out on sunscreen will only put the time, money, and effort that you have invested in caring for your skin to waste. If you still need more reasons to apply your SPF, click here to find out how sunscreen protects you from premature aging and skin cancer.

2. Double cleanse nightly

Double-cleansing is fundamental in Korean skincare and a big help in improving uneven skin tone. By using an oil or balm cleanser first and following up with a water-based one, you unclog your pores and thoroughly cleanse your skin without drying it out. As an added bonus, clean pores can help improve your skin's efficiency in absorbing the active ingredients found in your brightening skincare.

3. Slap on some pimple patches (gently)

Acne scars a.k.a post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation always follow after a breakout. A pimple patch can help prevent dark, dark spots since it protects your acne from dirt and your attempts to touch or poke it. 

4. Exfoliate once or twice a week

The right amount of exfoliation is great for keeping your skin healthy and glowing. Exfoliating unclogs and minimises your pores, helps reduce sebum, and sloughs off damaged or dead skin cells—key to improving hyperpigmentation. A smoother skin texture also helps in our fight against uneven skin tone since bumps can cause shadows when light hits your face and it gives you an even canvas for applying your skincare products.

AHAs, BHAs, LHAs, and PHAs are the most common chemical exfoliants. Here are their key differences:

• AHAs – water soluble with hydrating and brightening properties; ideal for normal to dry skin types
• BHAs – oil soluble and sinks deep into your pores to unclog and purify them; ideal for normal, combination, oily, and/or acne-prone skin
• LHAs – gentle alternative to BHAs; unclogs pores and renews skin
• PHAs – work exclusively on the surface of your skin; ideal for sensitive skin or if you can’t tolerate AHAs and BHAs

When it comes to uneven skin tone, you’ll want to reach for AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid). Why? They help lighten hyperpigmentation and brighten your complexion by removing the outer layer of dead skin cells. In addition, AHAs can help hydrate your skin and reduce signs of sun damage like fine lines and wrinkles. PHAs are similar to AHAs but, because they are milder, will take more time before you see visible results.

🍑 Hearing the word “acid” can sound scary but Korean skincare exfoliants use gentle ones in low percentages. You can also incorporate soothing and hydrating ingredients (e.g., green tea, centella, heartleaf, etc.) when using exfoliators to help balance your skin. Learn more about the benefits and differences of skincare acids in our guide to chemical exfoliation.

Wash-off masks, gentle scrubs, and other physical exfoliation tools are also good ways to rejuvenate your skin and feel refreshed.

5. Say good morning with antioxidants

There are two morning skincare habits you need to get into if you want clear and healthy skin: 1) applying sunscreen and 2) pairing it with antioxidants.

Antioxidants protect your skin from damage caused by free radicals (unstable molecules created by our body, pollution, smoke, UV rays, etc.). Free radicals can accumulate in your body, causing oxidative stress that results in dehydrated skin, fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. By preventing all these, antioxidants help maintain your skin’s overall health. They are also great for improving uneven skin tone and keeping your skin bright and youthful.

Vitamin C is a popular choice for those who want clearer and brighter skin. However, this antioxidant is also infamous for being difficult to formulate into skin-friendly products so those with sensitive skin may find it too harsh or irritating. If your skin cannot tolerate vitamin C, you can go for its derivatives or the other skincare ingredients listed here.

Antioxidants in skincare

• Niacinamide 🌟
• Vitamin E
• Green tea extract
• Grape seed extract
• Resveratrol
• Ferulic acid
• Sea buckthorn
• Rice
• Blueberry
• Centella

6. Use retinol before going to bed

Retinol is famous for being the gold standard of well-aging skincare. Its fame is well-deserved since it helps with your overall skin health and hyperpigmentation. How does retinol help with uneven skin tone? First, it improves skin cell turnover. This is good for you since replacing damaged or dead skin cells with new, healthy ones keeps your skin youthful and—you guessed it—helps shed off discoloured skin cells.

Retinol is also a tyrosinase inhibitor. In simpler terms, it helps curb the production of melanin in your skin—preventing or lightening hyperpigmentation in the process. Note, however, that retinol can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, which circles back to uneven skin tone if left alone. To make the most out of this skincare ingredient, make sure to double down on your sun protection every day. 

🍑 Learn more about the gold standard of well-aging and read our guide for retinol beginners here. 

7. Get into serums with brightening ingredients

Serums (and ampoules) are considered as “treatments” in your skincare since they are supercharged with active ingredients that target specific skin concerns. For uneven skin tone, a good brightening serum can be key to clear, glowing skin.

Skincare ingredients for uneven skin tone

• Niacinamide – brightens your skin, reduces dark spots, improves acne, and helps control oiliness
• Hydroquinone – limits melanin production, well-known for treating hyperpigmentation
• Azelaic acid – has anti-inflammatory properties, exfoliates skin, and can inhibit melanin production
• Arbutin – lightens dark spots and is gentle on your skin
• Glycolic acid – reduces fine lines and wrinkles, removes dead skin cells, and improves uneven skin tone
• Licorice extract – brightens skin and has anti-inflammatory properties
• Tranexamic acid – can strengthen skin barrier, reduces dark spots, improves skin tone

Like retinol, active or brightening ingredients can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun so don’t forget to apply sunscreen in the morning.

💡 Layering all these ingredients in one skincare routine may be too harsh or irritating. Find what works best for you from the lot and remember to be gentle on your skin.

Improving uneven skin tone takes time, patience, and consistency. You may have to wait 1 to 2 months (or more, depending on your skin and skincare practices) before seeing any visible results so don’t give up and be kind to yourself—your skin does not have to be perfectly clear every single day. Enjoy your skincare and take things one step at a time.